This topic is dear to my heart, as one who has never been remotely the shape of whatever model they draft patterns for. Also, for every garment I have made myself, I have made at least 100 for other people, and so I’ve had to get patterns to fit every conceivable body shape. It’s a challenge I have always enjoyed rather than endured, but I realise it is a source of frustration for many sewists.

When you are sewing for yourself, once you know your body’s shape and how to translate that into pattern adjustments, sewing becomes easier. What I aim to do in this lecture is help you to understand what matters and what doesn’t – and how to find out.

The internet is a fantastic resource for sewists of all levels, with so many great blogs and resources like pattern review. However, I feel there is a downside. A lot of highly technical information about pattern making and adjustments is out there and sewists are using it to try and improve their pattern drafting. Personally I feel this is counter intuitive – the best way to learn how to adjust a flat pattern is to work on a 3D body, and translate those changes into the pattern, not the other way around. This is how our minds work, and there’s nothing like getting hands on to increase understanding.

So, in our lecture I’ll be demonstrating on two fabulous models, Sarah and Johanna, the cause and effect nature of common fitting issues. My ultimate goal, the one that makes all the hard work worthwhile for me, is if sewists can get to know the contours of their bodies really well so that they can fit their clothes, not so they can sit in judgement of those contours.

I’m going to demonstrate on our two models how I have got a great fit on hundreds of women and men in the past 30 years. Concentrating on upper body fit and sleeves, where most people’s frustrations come from, but many of the principles apply to lower body fitting also and I’ll touch on that.

So, at $10 a ticket it is an inexpensive investment in upskilling yourself. AND, for anyone reading this blog who registers, leave a comment below or a message on our facebook page, and I will have a 20% off your next purchase voucher waiting for you behind the counter next time you visit. It’s my way of saying thank you for engaging with us online and following up, I appreciate that.

The Patterns

I am using two patterns from two different companies, chosen because they are generic enough to use as a sloper for adjusting other patterns.

This pattern Simplicity 2648 is an Amazing Fit style which means it has different pattern pieces for different cup sizes, and different skirt shapes. Personally, one glance at it told me it was no amazing at all, but that’s to be expected and we’ll look at what you can do to make it amazing after all.

Butterick B4443 is a great basic dress pattern. Unfortunately without a sleeve option. I chose it because I know the model will love it and she can use the adjustments to make herself a scrummy one afterwards

 So, if your curiosity is piqued, we’d love to see you there. June 1 and 2, 10.05am-11am, Icon Room at Te Papa. Bookings are on HandMade’s website

Things have come a long way from the days when a lampshade was made from a wire frame. Today’s lampshades comprise two rings – one containing the ‘drop’ for holding it to the light fitting, and ‘styrene’, a stiff translucent plastic that provides rigidity to the body. This means you can make them any size or shape that can be had from your choice of rings, and that is plenty.

Of course I just had to have a go straight away, and my efforts are in the shop. I am happy to explain to anyone who wants to know how to do it, and for those who really want to be guided through the process, I’m holding regular classes. Check the Calendar!

All you need besides the rings is styrene, spray contact adhesive and double sided sellotape. We have all of these supplies, of course!

As for the cover fabric, the world is your oyster! Light coloured, lightweight fabrics are best, as they let the light through best.

These are the results of our second class – eight fabulous lampshades in fabrics as diverse as their makers! And they all looked fab too.

   The whole mural in situ above the changing table. I love the bright yet subtle colours together, making what is normally a cool palette into a warm and welcoming one.

A close up of the composition – this balances well because of the three larger hoops running diagonally across, with smaller ones grouped around. The bottom left green hoop is a birth record.

The sweetest button flowers ever!

Button art at its coolest.

Thank you so much to Kasia for sending in these photos and sharing them with us. I love to receive photos from customers of their creations, and always ask first if it is all right to post them on our website, never fear!

Stands!! Threads, buttons, zippers (still empty!) and shelves for reels and reels of elastic, bias binding, lace, cord, tape…

Our signature bunting here is a permanent fixture. And yes, there will be plenty for sale also – with close together flags in gorgeous fresh colours.

Space!!! It won’t stay that way, mind you. Lots to fit into it still!

A wee glimpse of our lovely new Ashfords range of 8 and 12 play yarn – 100% kiwi made, it never leaves the country from the sheep to the shop. I love that!

I love our stands. All that thread, so many choices! Standard polyester, recycled polyester, cotton, and a range of machine embroidery options too. Yum.

Look at all that shiny goodness! Metallics, rayons, other stuff.

STOP PRESS: This is about our second shop, we are not closing our Marion St shop. Panic not!

Our new shop is in part of what used to be the Party Shop, upstairs in Capital on the Quay, just by the Home Store.

We are Shop 1 on the floor plan. Yes, long and slim with lots of wall space to hang and display lovely stuff!

This shop will stock lots of NZ made yarn, sewing and needlework supplies, cake decorating, and haberdashery in general, and all those bits and bobs like D rings and plate hangers. Paper craft c/o The Craft House who will be stocking us with the absolute latest products,

From this week we will be doing the fitout, and next week we will be putting all the lovely products out on display. From then our doors will be open too, so do come and say hello and check us out. our neighbours tell us that they’ve been fielding a few curious inquiries already!

The sign is in, more to come!

These little lampshades are only 15cm high. A customer brought the metal fittings in, that don’t fit any lampshade known to Wellingtonkind. I was intrigued by the little metal clips that attach the fitting directly to the lightbulb. We think they date from the 1930′s. You can see the circular rim of the fitting at the top of the shades.

Always up for a challenge, I offered to make a pair of little shades for them. I do love a challenge and it is good to have a play with materials and techniques in new ways.

I felt that the embroidered silk dupion suited the age of the fittings, as the roses are a bit “Charles Rennie Mackintosh”esque. Apparently they look just right in the oak panelled hallway.

These little shades are made from styrene, the outer fabric stuck on with spray adhesive. I finished the bottom edge with an old rose upholstery piping. The back seams are hand sewn through holes made with an awl.

Anything is possible when you make it yourself. I had no idea what I was going to end up with when I started on this project, I was just having fun with the techniques one uses to make “proper” lampshades.

Time taken: 2 hours

Cost of materials: 0.3m Styrene, $5.50, 1m piping $2.40, outer fabric free offcuts. Spray adhesive and double sided sellotape in small amounts.

Pleasure in the outcome and customer satisfaction: priceless!

In between my own mad sewing and research I’ve scheduled some fantastic classes for this autumn based on patterns I’ve been working on, techniques I’ve been perfecting, and requests from students.

Pictured: mad sewing

I’m particularly excited about Sewing with Knits: the Simple T-Shirt.  I sewed knit dance outfits for a costume shop a decade ago, and then just got out of practice, and sewing with knits began to seem quite tricky and daunting.  Last year I made a resolution to overcome my odd fear of knits, and when I started working with them again everything came back, and I love how easy they are to work with, and how easy they are to wear.  The class is based on my own (now totally overcome) fear of knits, and is aimed at showing all sewing levels how fun and easy it is to make a T-shirt that is better than boughten.

Because it is an introduction to knit class, it’s suitable for fairly beginner sewers who know how to operate a machine but may never have used a pattern, and quite advanced sewers who have only worked with wovens.  You’ll both learn a lot from it.  Hope to see you in the class!

The simple, but perfectly made, T-shirt

Another class that I am just thrilled to be able to offer is the new Intermediate Level 3+: Perfecting Your Techniques class.  There has been so much demand for a class where intermediate-advanced students could work on their own chosen project, but get assistance with tricky fitting, specialised techniques, and fine finishes.  In an advanced class students can do the bulk of the sewing at home, and use class time for the really hard bits.  I can’t wait to see what projects students bring in!  The first session starts April 17 and runs for four weeks (with a break between the third and fourth week) and the another session runs Wednesdays 8-28 May.

Pintucks, top joined seams, and other techniques to perfect

The Perfectly Fitted Trousers course that I ran in Feb and March was such a huge success, and there was so much demand from the students in it to do more classes where you develop personalised pattern blocks that I’m offering Perfect-Fit Pencil Skirt starting Thursday May 16 and running for three weeks.  Developing a pencil skirt block is easier than a trouser block, so we’ll have more time to focus on getting your finishes right: working with linings, setting hems, and putting in zips.

Perfect-fit Pencil Skirt

And do check out the awesome orange and white diagonal stripey pencil skirt currently on display at Made on Marion that I made as a class sample!  Most of you may prefer a more classic black or grey skirt for yourself, but I couldn’t resist playing with the fabric.

Another class that has been scheduled due to popular demand is the Classic Collared Shirt class, starting 29 April and running every Monday eve for four weeks.  The class is designed for both men and women’s shirt styles, so I hope to see some of Wellingtons male sewers in it!  Almost a decade ago, when we were still dating, I taught my now-husband, who had never sewn in his life before, how to sew a classic collared shirt.  He still has the first shirt we made together, and if I could get him to make a perfect shirt, anyone with intermediate sewing experience will be just fine in this class!

As always, there are Absolute Beginners classes happening every five weeks.  The April-May night session is currently fully booked, but there are still spaces in the April Daytime Absolute Beginners (the daytime classes are usually smaller, so I highly recommend them if you can make them!).

A sweet and simple pillowcase dress made in Daytime Absolute Beginners

Once you are done with Absolute Beginners, take Level 2 Intermediate: Intro to Sewing with Patterns, with the first four-week session starting Tuesday 23 April.  It’s also perfect for those who have done a little sewing on their own but still need help reading patterns and knowing all the techniques.

Finally, for a little bit of fluff and fun, I’m thrilled to be offering French Knickers and Tap Pants again.  It’s the perfect indulgent course to make yourself some lingerie that can be as pretty and luxurious as you want (I make mine out of silk) while still being practical for windy Wellington winter weather.  The course starts Thursday June 6 and runs two weeks.  Keep a watch out for the Made on Marion display in the weeks running up to it – it’s going to turn into a veritable garden of tap pants!

French knickers

Hope to see you in one or more of these courses!  Have a class that you’d really like me to teach, or offer again?  Leave a comment and I’ll see what I can do!

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The Dreamstress, aka Leimomi Oakes, is a textile historian and historical seamstress with a strong background in teaching.

At her School of Vintage sewing you’ll learn vintage, historical and modern sewing techniques, lots of textile history, and how to be an independent sewist who feels confident creating your own designs, drafting your own patterns, and altering commercial patterns.

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Courses are rated on difficulty on a scale of 1 to 10 –  The ratings are just a guideline to give you an idea of how hard the course will be: don’t pick something too far above your level, but be sure to challenge yourself!

1: is an absolute beginners course, for someone who has never been on a sewing machine before.

2: you’ve made cushions or something similar, and know how to set zips and make buttonholes.

3: you can follow a simple sewing pattern.

4: you’ve moved up to more complicated patterns with linings.

5: you’re ready to start making adaptions to your patterns to suit your taste and to fit you better.

6: you’ve begun to draft your own simple patterns and making up moderately difficult patterns

7: you’re beginning to play with draping, and trickier fabrics

8: you’re working your way up to difficult fabrics, evening wear, tailoring and tricky fitting issues

9: you’re making your own patterns, and working with couture techniques.

10: is for someone with experience in pattern making, couture sewing, and advanced fitting.

I am going to two baby showers in as many weeks, and so I took the opportunity to whip up a couple of little quilts.

    Lovely Japanese printed linens and cottons from Stitchbird in Kilbirnie.

Penguins, cars, robots and polka dots – I love the bright blues and greys and browns together.

Gorgeous grubby pinks and apple greens for a girl. Little piggies, mice, Alice, and of course, polka dots!

Both of them were pieced really fast – I just sewed the 0.2m cuts together, cut them into strips the other way, mixed up a couple of them and sewed them up. It took about an hour.

Both are backed by a lovely cotton shirting from Global Fabrics. It has a soft, satiny hand that I think babies will love to feel.

For the boy quilt, I quilted it with a simple meandering “stipple.”

For the girl quilt, I did a clematis inspired flower and leaf vine pattern.

Both of these were done entirely freehand. They are much easier to do than it may sound, or look. Quilting free hand is a bit like writing – you have a style and it tends to be consistent – I find that my flowers work out more or less the same size, because I am doing them, if that makes sense!

This is my favourite type of quilting – OK, it’s the only type I do. I’m not that flash at straight lines and I don’t have the patience! I do really believe that you get just as fair a result freehand as if following a pattern.

If your machine will drop its dog feed, or has a plate that fits over the dog feed, you can try this. And if you like the sound of it but would like to come to a fun class, leave me a comment!

Contrast cuff linings, collar stay and under collar. Nothing like a bit of contrast.

I made this shirt to practise my detailing, and because we have so many men learning to sew, it’s good to be top of the game. The pattern is from 1979 – I love the slimmer fit and detailing of 70′s shirts.

If you are making, or thinking about making a shirt, do tell me about it – it may be a good workshop, you think?

Matching patterns on a busy fabric is not just a showoffy thing to do, it also stops the garment from being cluttered and busy in a bad way. It would work just as well of course on any garment with pockets.

1. Separate the two shirt fronts and pin the pattern tissue back onto one of them, with the fabric right side facing the tissue. In the photos, the pattern is upside down-whereas for the other side it would be right side up.

2. Now pin the pocket pattern piece over the pattern, matching the markings. In this case, I’ve matched the inner edge only because of a folded adjustment, but if you can, match all the placement lines.

3. Now using a chalk pencil (because it rubs out), carefully trace over a few key reference points in the fabric pattern. Not all of them, just a few. I’m using a purple chalk and you may be able to make out that I’ve traced a leaf and a flower just above where my hand is in this photo.

4. Now unpin everything. Place your pocket piece onto the remaining fabric and carefully line up your chalk marks with the pattern. It takes a teency bit of patience but not too much It’s hard to see in the photo, but this stage is simpler because you only have one layer of tissue to see through. Pin then cut your pocket out.

5. Rub the chalk marks off the pattern piece (I brushed them off with a dry microfibre cloth) and repeat the whole process for the other side of the garment.

This is my piped pocket all lined up on the shirt front ready to sew. This method works just as well on unpiped pockets, of course.You don’t even have to match the placement lines – use the pattern matching to place them, it ought to be just right.

If your pattern is too faint to see through the two layers of tissue, you can place a piece of clear plastic over the shirt front piece and trace the pattern onto that in a much darker pen. Then place the pocket piece over THAT and pick up from step two. Only, you will have the darker markings to trace instead!

The Shirt will start making an appearance behind the counter in a week or so.

Happy Sewing!